Buen viaje! ✈️🥾
Tuesday 26th July 2022
Six long years have gone by, and that time has come again!
I’m off to walk around 850k again.. 🥾😍
This time though, it’s not because I’m in search of something new. It’s because I’m in search of some inner peace. As humans we spend so much time being ‘busy.’ But not a lot of time for ourselves. So for the next six weeks. I’ll be doing exactly that; walking, eating, drinking, laughing, catching some sun, and hopefully meeting some interesting people!!
Walking a Camino does not give me what I want. But it gives me what I need!! Which is; some time to relax, think and appreciate the basics in life. Being alive, physically able and healthy!
It’s not about the miles I walk, but the smiles I meet, and make along the way!
D-day minus 1
Wednesday 27th July 2022
So I’m currently sitting at the High Wycombe Coach-way, eagerly waiting to leave. Feeling a little nervous now I’m actually off again. The thought of walking over 800k in an ever increasing climate is going to be tough! Still, if I’ve done it before! I can do it again!!
And off we go…
Wednesday 27th July 2022
After a turbulent start – queuing for half an hour, attempting to check my bag in. Whilst standing in the wrong terminal! 🤦🏻♂️ I’m now in the right terminal about to board! Bye bye U.K for a while…
J’arrive en St Jean Pied de Port
Wednesday 27th July 2022
Long journey here, but pretty easy and comfortable! Feeling quite tired!!
Met Melanie and had the guided tour of her beautiful 500yr old Winery. Lovely room to sleep in tonight. Off into SJP in a bit to get my first stamp and out for tea. Day 1 begins tomorrow. Feeling a little nervous!
Day 1: Thursday 28th July 2022
From: Saint Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles
Well it has been a strange day today. Walking the same route, pathways that should be recognised. However, it all felt very new! It’s hard to put into words, but I feel a lot more present this time than last.
I left the beautiful place I stayed at 05:45. Walking with the sound of the bats and the French Cockerells starting to awaken from their slumber. It was very eery, walking the streets and not seeing anyone!
The first part of the day was great! I was walking quickly, and had a great pace on. Especially considering my lack of practice! I reached Valcarlos at least 2/3 hours earlier than I did last time!! The walk up the main part of the Pyrenees was tough. The sun was up, and it was getting hot!! Normally the walk today is 8 hours and I smashed it in around 7. 😊 Not smoking and being fitter has made a massive difference!! I hope tomorrow will be the same.
Arrived in the monastery albergue, which is busy. But I’ve got a comfy bed, had a shower and just seen off a beer and a bocadillo.
Definitely ready for a lie down!
Day 2: Friday 29th July 2022
From: Roncesvalles to Zubiri
Yesterday evening was very relaxing. Sat in a bar for ages talking to some bloke from Canada, who was a good laugh. Then had dinner with two French chaps and a Spanish man. All in their late fifties. It was amusing trying to translate between the 3 languages!
Today’s walk was tough. My legs were a bit sore from yesterday. I got woken up at 04:30 by some noisy people! So I decided to get up and leave early too! Walked with an English couple up until the obligatory breakfast stop. Then wished them a ‘Buen Camino,’ and I marched onwards. It was tricky terrain today, lots of ups and downs and steep rocks. It’s certainly quieter on the way than it was last time. Not many people around. And this that are. Are all French or Italian.
Staying in a cheap municipal albergue tonight. I have a feeling it’s going to be noisy and hot! Even though it’s been a lovely 15 degree couldn’t, and rainy walk today.
Currently sitting in the sun, which has only just appeared outside in the garden.
Tomorrow’s walk to Pamplona should be easy! It’s mostly flat, and only 24k.
Day 3: Saturday 30th July 2022
From: Zubiri to Pamplona
Long and rough day today. Rubbish nights sleep, somebody snoring so loudly in the albergue. Almost sounded like they were going to stop breathing!
Nice easy walk today. Weather was cool this morning, then beautifully hot. Arrived early again. Just had a nice lunch in a plaza. Time for washing and a siesta now. Out for a fiesta and eat lots of tapas with a few camino friends tonight.
Day 4: Sunday 31st July 2022
From: Pamplona to Malenu
Today was a tough tough tough day!! My plan was to walk 44k to reach Estella (2x days stages). Because of the distance, I left at 5am closely followed by several others.
It was a beautiful walk to start with. The road and path leading out of Pamplona was lovely and quiet! However, it was almost 3 hours of walking without breakfast, or even a cup of coffee! The terrain from then onwards was lovely. I climbed a steep hill to reach the iron Camino statues. Then it was followed by a steep, slippery and rocky descend the other side.
From then onwards it was a mix of ups and downs. Until finally reaching Puente la Reina. A beautiful village, and also a place I stayed last time. So I thought I’d venture on whilst feeling strong.
However..! I had forgotten about the steep, and relentless climb away from there! The weather has been in the plus 30’s today. So that made it equally difficult. Eventually after a long rest on a bench by a water fountain. I met an Italian couple who told me they were staying here. So I followed and have got a bed for the night. It’s dead quiet too, so we might have a massive dormitory bedroom to only a handful of us. Very cheap and delicious food too!! Definitely a lucky end to a hard day. Which has also been made better by a 5€ trip to the local swimming pool. My legs are slowly starting to feel alive again.
Dinner tonight in the hostal. Some other friends I’ve made are staying here too – so that’s nice. Think I might have a slightly later start tomorrow I think.
Day 5: Monday 1st August 2022
From: Malenu to Ayegui
Left at 5am again. Lovely quiet walk along a beautiful Roman road. Apparently, it is the longest one in the world. It was very easy to walk on. I met some interesting people today: a South African corporate Intermediator, and a nice Columbian bloke. She was quite interesting to talk to for a while. I saw some lovely vineyards again today. In the Navarre region here, the buildings are so beautiful! Some of the villages I’m passing through almost feel fake, because of how beautiful they are! I took a picture of one, but it doesn’t quite justify the feelings that come when actually being there.
A part of the conversation with Mrs S.A today was about why I am walking the Camino. It is also her second time. When I explained to her how I felt more present. She agreed and said that she felt the same. I’ve not recognised many things I would have seen last time. But I have remembered some of the moments. For example, during my walk yesterday. I was on a path in the middle of nowhere. When I suddenly felt an instant goose-pimpling reminder of the exact spot I’d stopped for a toilet break. 🤣. Similarly, walking in to the municipal albergue I’m staying in tonight. I am strangely sitting at the same table as I was last time. It’s a bit odd, being so relaxed about the places I’m going, knowing I’m going there. Feeling like I don’t need to look at a book to tell me anything. But simply to exist and just be present. To walk, wash, rest and sleep. Then repeat the pattern the next day.
Walking over 20 kilometres every day is hard. Especially when the weather is getting hotter. Trying to focus on an end destination and making sure I arrive has been important / stressful almost. Today, I learnt a lesson that I need to relax more, and listen to my body. My leg said ‘ow.’ My mind said “Matthew you’ve got to carry on.” Fortunately I stopped and stayed. Now after relaxing all day. I’m feeling better and more ready for tomorrow. I’ve also had a few nice beers chatting to a Colombian bloke and the Hospitalero.
It’s a very quiet place here – only 6 of us in a massive building!
Until tomorrow…..
Day 6: Tuesday 2nd August 2022
From: Ayegui to Torres del Rio
Very long day today! Walked just under 30k.
Left at 5am to avoid the extreme temperature change. By jove is it hot (and it’s only 3:30).
It was a lovely walk through a forest and up a mountain path. Passed through another lovely town (Los Arcos) before arriving here at around 13:00.
My legs are definitely starting to feel stronger and fitter. I’m not as out of breath on the hills/mountains any more.
Thought provoking thing of today stem a from the ants that I keep seeing crossing my path. There seem to be so many of them scurrying back and forth from one place to another. Often they appear to be carrying twigs or leaves. It made me think that as Peregrinos. We are also like ants. Marching along a path (all be it a very long one) with a final destination. We are also carrying something. Whether it be metaphorically within our hearts and minds. Or physically on our backs.
Perhaps, we as humans all have some thing(s) to carry. I was thinking that our minds are like compartments of information/knowledge. Some are happy, pleasant thoughts in a special treasure chest. Others are contained within a black cloud, some we may not even want to remember. Those tragic, hurtful events that help to shape us to become different people. Being able to separate those thoughts is a useful exercise to do. However it occurred to me today, that it’s far more important to think and focus on the good things. There are hours when I am walking completely alone. And whilst those moments are truly heavenly. It’s the brief interactions with others that are really quite special. Even the briefest of them all have there own.
In the past few days I have met some really lovely people!! Very kind hearted. Always asking, how I am, and being sincere about it. There have been some that are a little fake/insincere, possibly even a bit shifty. And then there have been those few that are very obvious at showing they don’t like me. Almost to a point of being rude. But whatever.. life is too short to worry / think about that.
There are also those who frankly I’d be happy not to meet again, and I’m sure they might feel the same. However, even these people have left an impression. Everyone we encounter in life possesses an ability to leave a mark on another. Even if we might not think about it at the time.
At the end of the day though. We are all but ants marching on whichever path we may choose. All with our own baggage, be it light, heavy or sometimes a mixture of both?!
Tomorrow will be a short walk to Logrono. To eat some delicious tapas and relax a little.
Day 7: Thursday 4th August 2022
From: Torres del Rio to Logroño
Apologies for writing this a day late. Today, was an easy-ish kind of day. It was only a 20k walk, so it wasn’t too bad!
I met some lovely people again, and had a few lovely stops. I got rained on a bit, so I had to buy a new waterproof jacket. I found a decent camping shop and managed to replace the waterproof jacket I lost, and a little towel too.
The day was pretty quiet to start with, I had a nice time relaxing in a swimming pool the night before. So my feet and legs felt much better! Dinner in the albergue was lovely too!! I had a nice time eating with a bunch of Korean people. Who were really good fun. I
The few thoughts I had today were mostly musically based. Which is funny because, when I was thinking about what I wrote about the ants. I was talking to a bloke about blisters/feet and how ugly and disgusting they can be. When he said – “that’s life.” Which made me think how Frank Sinatra used to sing that song and it was on one of Dad’s cd’s in his car. He used to play it occasionally when he picked me up from school. So it seemed quite an appropriate song for the end of the day!
Despite the short walking distance today. I still left early so I wouldn’t get hit by the weather. Which has been really hot!! But because of the rain that made it humid and hot!
While I was walking today. I was wondering about the yellow paint that marks the Camino. I was wondering whether if all the paint used was put into one big pot. Would there be enough for every pilgrim in a year to have a drop?
My next thought was about St James and the people who would have been carrying him to Santiago. What they were wearing, carrying and using to support them was far less than we have today. That got me thinking about how grateful I am to have special blister socks, boots, breathable T-shirts a bag etc etc. We are certainly very fortunate these days to have so many options for almost everything!!
After this I started to think about the religious aspect of walking the Camino. Whilst it is a very spiritual and introspective walk. There is also that element of being in the company of God. Especially when walking alone. There are many times when I have wanted something and it has appeared. I have even had feelings or premonitions about things and they too have happened/come true. Perhaps if you want something enough and focus on it with all your intention – then it does come true??! (Sometimes anyway).
After this the song : 500 miles came on to play. Which got me thinking about the lyrics to the song.
“When I wake up, I know I’m gonna be the man, who wakes up next to you.”
“When I go out, I know I’m gonna be the man, who goes along with you.”
Etc etc..
This continues through the song. And what I was thinking that if God is all around. Then perhaps walking 500 miles may bring ‘us’ (me) pilgrims closer to him?
It has been lovely meeting so many different people, and again making new friends. If only it were this simple at home?? Perhaps going to church more often might help?
Well anyway. I arrived in Logroño safe and sound. I had a lovely room to share with a great couple from Hull. I had some delicious tapas, Rueda and Rioja with some Spanish friends I’ve made too.
Bloody long day tomorrow: 30k and it’s going to be 34* 🙈
Day 8: Thursday 4th August 2022
From: Logroño to Najera
Wow! What a long day!!!! Woke up at 4am, after an amazing nights sleep. Left the albergue and had a very slow / lost walk out of town. It was a shame to leave, as it is certainly one of my favourite places along the whole way to Santiago.
Today’s walk was tough to start with. It was hot from the outset of the day. I had little to no motivation, nor energy to walk. I hadn’t had coffee or breakfast so I was a little grumpy! Still had a nice chat with a few people. Saw another beautiful sunrise and more lovely pathways. I met up with the Spanish friends I’ve made. So we had fun all walking together. Until right towards the end when I was so tired, I had to slow down!!!
I also ran out of water for a bit too. So I had to be patient and wait for ages! At least until again, my wish for water came true. Someone has set up their garden shed into a a shaded water retreat. Which on a day like today was well used I bet!
Najera is a beautiful riverside town with some lovely places to eat. 7 of us went and had a fun 13€ pilgrims menu (3xcourse lunch). Beautiful potato and chorizo soup, steak and chips, ice cream and a couple of glasses of red wine.
All in all. It’s been a hot, long, but fun day.
Not much thinking going on other than, “I can’t be bothered, I’m tired, hot and thirsty.” But the destination was set and I arrived safe, sound and blister / injury free. 😊
Day 9: Friday 5th August 2022
From: Najera to Santa Domingo de la Calzada
I had a lovely evening with some Camino friends yesterday. We shared some delicious raciones and a few glasses of wine. Slept pretty well too. Which is no surprise after such a long day yesterday.
Today, has been a pretty good day. The walk was around 24k and it wasn’t too bad. Few steep hill climbs, but nothing too challenging. Walked and talked with a couple of nice blokes earlier.
Arrived in SdC pretty early, so I had plenty of time to have a nice lunch with friends. Shower, wash clothes and relax. The weather has been cloudy and breezy which has been lovely. It certainly makes it easier to walk! Particularly after such a long day yesterday!
It was a little sad to say goodbye to some friends today. But onwards we go to meet and make new ones.
Day 10: Saturday 6th August 2022
From: Santa de la Calzada a Belorado
Easy day’s walk, it was only 22k, so it didn’t take too long. I had two lovely stops. One at a very quiet farm with a beautiful garden. The owners has converted a caravan and built an extension conservatory type garden. I stayed for a bit and had a lovely croissant. The second was at a lovely restaurant! The atmosphere on the inside was incredible. I bet it would be a great place to eat!
The walk was very up and down for most of the day. The views mostly being a lot of hay and fields. Consequently, there was a lot of yellow, and thousands more sunflowers. The town Belorado is not a big place. Only 2000 people live here, so it’s not that exciting. On the whole it’s been a good day. I walked really fast today, felt quite strong. I could almost have carried on. But I’ve made some friends, so I’m staying here!
This evening was very relaxing too. I’ve had a 2-hour siesta and made a delicious salad to share. Ready for bed now!
Day 11: Wednesday 10th August 2022
From: Belorado to San Juan de Ortega
Nothing much to write today, I’m certainly feeling fitter and stronger. Walked the 24k here, only stopping once with no issues. I arrived really quickly.
The scenery on the way has changed a lot! There are now fields upon fields of sun flowers and beautiful forests. It was pretty tough during the latter part of the day. Climbing up a 1100m mountain then down and up another 950m. Still I tackled it with sweat and determination. I arrived at the Monastery albergue early in the company or a nice American chap. Also a teacher and a really nice bloke. Incredibly fit – he is running parts of the Camino after training a lot at home.
Had a lovely tuna omelette when I got here. Albergue dinner tonight I think.
Day 12: Monday 8th August 2022
From: Saint Juan to Burgos
I had a lovely evening yesterday. I’ve been walking with two kind Spanish girls and their mum. Who had joined them for the weekend. So it was fun eating and relaxing together. We had pizzas for dinner in the very sleepy village. There were only a handful of houses, and the most enormous and beautiful monastery and church.
It’s a bit of a hidden 12 century church that’s definitely worth a visit! The detail, gold carvings and ginormous gates inside are a sight to behold. As are the hand carved decorative pieces epicting the nativity scene. These also date back to the 12-13 century.
The albergue however, was expensive and uncomfortable! Slept better than the night before. But still pretty terrible.
I woke up at 4am today. Started to get ready slowly and we left at 5am. It was a tough start to the day with a few steep climbs! After which it was mostly all down hill into Burgos. Saw another beautiful sunrise, and even more sunflowers! There certainly seem to be more than last time!
Walking in to Burgos was long and tiresome. The route went all around the airport. Then through the industrial town and all through the city. Eventually arrived at the same albergue as last time. Although it seems much nicer this time around. The cathedral is still as magnificent. Even more so in this afternoons gorgeous sunshine! I’m so pleased I walked the 30k here before it started to get so hot!
We have just had a nice lunch and said goodbye to ‘mama’ now it’s time for a siesta!
Until tomorrow.
Day 13: Wednesday 10th August 2022
Day off. Burgos to Leon
Seeing as it’s unlucky number 13. I decided to take the day off. I had a lovely lie in and only got out of bed at 7am. 😊
I had a lovely breakfast at a bar opposite the albergue. Then, due to time constraints I have skipped walking the 172k of the Meseta. By doing this, I will have time to walk the 150k at the end from Santiago de Compostela to Muxia.
The bus journey was easy. It took around 4-hours passing through some of the towns the walk would go through. Nothing has changed with any of them. It is still relentlessly flat, and very yellow (and all the other variations of yellow too)! It feels a shame that I’m missing it. Particularly because it is such a psychological challenge to handle. The endless hours of yellow, lack of green, and shade. The heat and sun seems to have an impact upon the mind to think more. Still, I would much rather have the extra time to enjoy the end (which I didn’t do last time).
Leon is another one of my favourite cities in Spain. It too has an exceptional cathedral. The design of these buildings is exceptional. The attention to detail, shape and size is incredible! Sadly, it wasn’t open so I couldn’t take a look. But I did try to capture some of its beauty in several photos.
The rest of the day was very relaxing! I slept for a few hours, explored a bit, and had some nice food.
Packed my bag and went to bed early ready to leave and walk again.
Day 14: Thursday 11th August 2022
From: Leon to Hospital del Orbigo
My what a long day!! 32 kilometres!!! The weather was perfect for it too! It was cool and cloudy in the morning. This made it very easy to walk.
There wasn’t much challenge to the walk today either. A few up’s and down’s but nothing too challenging!
I met a nice girl from the Ukraine at 5am just as I was leaving Leon. We had an interesting chat and she helped to encourage me to walk. Which was great, because I really wasn’t feeling motivated. Although, the mantra: left leg, right leg and the other will follow certainly rang true today!
There weren’t many places to stop for a drink. So I managed to walk over half of the distance before getting a break/coffee.
Initially I was going to stay in the town just before Orbigo. But my walking partner for the day suggested it. So I went! Funnily enough, it’s good I did too. Because I stayed in the same place as last time. Enjoyed some time in the municipal pool for only 2€ and ate some delicious food! Garlic Soup (typical dish within the region), basically a roasted garlic, cheesy bread soup. Followed by an average paella.
I met a nice Italian bloke who is cycling the way. The three of us had dinner together which was quite jolly. I think next time though, I won’t stay at the La Encina Albergue again. The owner was very abrupt and rude. I also had to wait over an hour for him to check me in. I was literally about to leave when he came over.
I had a great nights sleep, just the Italian and I in a four bed room.
Day 15: Thursday 11th August 2022
From: Orbigo to Murias de Rechivaldo
Wow! This morning was tough!! I felt tired, had no motivation at all, and my hamstring, glutes were really tight! It’s funny how some days my bag is in the sweet spot where my back and bag feel as one. This morning was not one of those starts to the day!
There was no where to stop for coffee either! It’s amazing how much of a boost even one cup of crappy, milky coffee provides. I think I walked about 18k before I was able to fill my veins with some black nectar! It certainly makes me think how lucky we are, to be able to have the luxury of being able to put a kettle on, make coffee ourselves at home/work. Also a lot more grateful too! Whilst I was feeling frustrated by this. Out of the blue at the top of a climb. There was a real oasis of paradise. This Spanish bloke has built and created an area of relaxation. Almost every type of food you’d want to eat. Plenty of space to lie down, sit and chill. There were cats floating around, a cute old dog and some peace and quiet. It was quite special stopping there and donating 2€ to his efforts. I still craved coffee though!! 🤣🤣
I stopped and passed through the big town; Astorga today. With yet another magnificent church and a Gaudi house/castle-like building. I ate some delicious bacon, omelette (scrambled egg like) and weird frankfurters that had cheese in the middle and were cold. This certainly gave me the oomph to continue. I finally managed to find that sweet spot for back and bag. Making the last 8k to get to Murias pretty easy. At 15:00, it is certainly hot now! 32*. I’m sitting in the shade with a nice cold Estrella. Slowly catching the sun on my very white feet, ankles and toes.
The albergue: Casa Flor is a beautiful retreat in the middle of a very quiet village. There must be only around 50 people that live here. Unless anyone else arrives, there will only be me, an English woman (also a teacher, from Harrow no less), and a Spanish bloke in a big room all to ourselves. The owner is Italian and seems very kind! She lived in High St Kensington for over 40yrs, so her English is impeccable.
After 25k of tiredness. It’s been a great end to the day! Tomorrow will be slightly harder as I start to climb the Cantabrian mountains for the next few days.
Day 16: Friday 12th August 2022
From: Murias de Rechivaldo to Acebo
Wowee!! What a day!! I had a pretty good nights sleep. Only three of us in the albergue. Had a few games of cards with the English lady from Harrow. It was quite fun. Also sampled 2 shots of the home-made Limoncello from the Italian Hospitalero lady. I had an interesting chat with her. She walked from Italy to Santiago over 7-months. She recommended a few other Caminos in Italy and Sardinia.
The day started out not too badly. I awoke at 4am. I couldn’t really sleep, but surfaced out of bed at around 05:30. The first part of the walk was semi-tough. My hamstring was hurting again. But then all of a sudden I found that sweet spot of the back/bag and got into a strong stride. Myself and the other English lady stopped at two separate towns for a coffee. One of which I remember from last time – The Cowboy Bar. However, sadly it was closed!
I bid a farewell to this lady at the bar there and marched ahead. I was really feeling strong today – it was a bit odd! I only had one ibuprofen and did some stretches. Perhaps the long rest in such a sleepy town has done the trick?! Let’s see if it lasts?!
The walk today was easy to start, long, flat and endless gravel paths. When I’m done, I will certainly miss the repetitive ‘crunch, crunch’ sound. As well as the ‘tic-tac-tic-tac’ sort of sound from walking sticks.
After marching ahead for a long time, I started to enter and climb just one of many Cantabrian mountains. My was it steep too! Up to an elevated height of around 1200m. Rocky terrain, very hard to walk on. The temperature rising to above 30 made it equally challenging. Still – I persevered!
Today was the day when I reached, ‘La Cruz del Ferro’ (The Iron Cross). This is a very significant point for most pilgrims. It is the place where you leave an object, say a prayer of whatever you want to leave behind you. Now, when I walked this route in 2016, it was very much about my emotions, thoughts and feelings regarding my dad dying. I will never forget, leaving a shell behind me. Then walking away feeling lighter in the head, heart and shoulders. It was an odd feeling! I even found it again today too!
Arriving at the iron cross has come around very fast this time! I know I have missed out 7 days of walking. But the walking I have done has felt easier. Slightly less challenging. Although, my joints are certainly more clickety-clackety, and it’s harder to get up and go! (Especially without coffee or food!). Although, when I do have food, I end up burping it out for the first few hours.
Seeing the cross today and walking up to it so easily felt quite odd. In a previous blog post, I remember saying how I felt more ‘present.’ This was certainly true today. I didn’t cry when seeing the cross. Particularly, when leaving behind another precious object. But I did feel a deep sense of gratitude. The previous time I did this walk, it led me down a path of discovering teaching as a new career. This time around, I think I’ve discovered myself. An element of inner-peace, happiness almost. I know I’m only 40 years old. Very young in comparison to the 60+ people who are walking too. But I feel like I’ve achieved a lot in life, and feel really satisfied with the things I have done. I do have regrets (as do most people), but I think the choices I’ve made so far have made me become the person I am. Walking this journey teaches many things, a lot of which I’ve realised I have automatically adopted into my ‘home’ life. For example, I may not have many friends or much of a social life. But for me that’s ok. The moments shared with others, no matter how brief they are, are all quite special. Saying ‘hello, how’s your feet etc’ for just a few minutes breaks up that silence. The smile from another person can spark one of my own for quite some time. (I’m just editing this now, and a French chap staying in my room has just come over. He is ordering us a bottle of wine to sit and chill whilst watching the sunset. He’s in is late 50’s and is going to draw it. Whilst a table of 4 Spanish family locals are enjoying their sun-lit dinner.)
Walking away from the cross today certainly felt very very different!! It was also bloody hot!! The temperature was rising to 34 degrees, and my is that hot to clamber over gravel and slippery rocks!! Ascending a bloody steep Cantabrian mountain (weird how it has the name, ‘Brian’ in it) was hard!! The climb went up to around 1200ft, then descended very steeply!!
Leaving at 06:00.
Arriving at 15:30.
In a 33 degree heat, was bloody hard work!!
Still, I have smashed out my longest walking day of my journey so far this year – 34k. I am staying at one of my most favourite places. In the middle of the mountains, with the most incredible view and soon – sunsets! It’s now 21:00. I’ve done my washing, had a delicious dinner, and been in the pool. The 12€ per night price is amazing too. There’s only 3 of us in an enormous room! Dinner consisted of Gazpacho, plus accompaniments. Huevos rotos with Serrano Ham (basically, two fried eggs, chips and ham, chopped up so all the yolk coats the chips), followed by ice-cream. Served with a bottle of wine for €15. Definitely a great end to the day!!
I’m now sitting on the balcony about to order another drink and photograph the sunset. Until tomorrow…
Day 17: Saturday 13th August 2022
Day off. El Acebo, Casa de Peregrinos
This is probably without doubt one of my favourite places to stay in Spain! The building is set deep in the heart of the mountains. The views over Ponferrada and the surrounding countryside is incredible! The peace and tranquility is lovely too. As has been the weather today. Hot – but not too hot! Perfect sunbathing weather.
It has truly been a heavenly day off! I’ve had a delicious breakfast, lunch and soon dinner. A thirty minute massage, a 2-hour siesta. I have also spent a large part of the day listening to a crime thriller pod cast. Lying comfortably on the pool-side sun loungers. It has been just what the doctor ordered!
I think I will certainly come back here again one day. However, I think I would drive, not walk, and stay longer!
I am looking forward to getting back on the road again tomorrow though!!
Day 18: Sunday 14th August 2022
From: El Acebo to Ponferrada
It was heavenly having such a nice day off yesterday. I took some more beautiful sunset photos. I’ll definitely go back there again one day!
Today’s walk was very tough!! Climbing down the mountain was steep, rocky and hard. Walking in the cold, along moon-lit paths was lovely. But it was challenging! Consequently, I’ve decided to take it easy and only walked around 20k. I’ve managed to meet up with a Colombian bloke I met a week or so ago too. And now, another French bloke too. We have had a few drinks together, off to a church mass soon. Then dinner and sleep. Ready to go tomorrow.
Ponferrada is a beautiful large town. There is a Templar’s castle, which is incredible. The castle walls are in such impeccable condition. I would love to come back one day and go in for a look around.
Day 19: Tuesday 16th August 2022
From: Ponferrada to Villafranca
Relatively quick and easy day. Nothing much to report. Walked about 28k. The weather was good for walking. It wasn’t too hot, and was quite nice. Met some more interesting and nice people. It definitely seems quieter than last time. Potentially not as enjoyable either. It’s certainly a lot harder!
Stayed in a nice room, in a beautiful albergue with 4 x friends I’ve met. Potentially we are going to walk together this week. Maybe arriving in Santiago on Friday / Saturday.
Day 20: Tuesday 16th August 2022
From: Villafranca to O’ Cebreiro
My was today tough! I woke up with a bad back. Poor packing yesterday, I think made it sore. I decided to send my bag ahead with the courier people today. It only cost 5€, and was totally worth it! After breakfast, a stretch and some ibuprofen it felt much better!!
It was a long 31k walk! I left with the American lady (Daniella) who I met yesterday. She helped motivate me to walk a lot this morning! We were barely talking, walking in the dark. But it was great having a familiar face to help.
The walk went up and over one of the Galician mountains. Very very steep! The ascent was rapid and hard! Arriving at the top finally after 7-hours of walking was a huge relief!
Staying in a municipal albergue tonight. 100 beds in a room and it’s full!! There’s been a lot of chat. Some of which sounded like it was referring to me. “He’s the reason I marched ahead.” / “stayed behind.” Hard to hear, hurtful a little. But I suppose definitely worth just ignoring!
There’s a pilgrims mass in a few hours at the local church. It’s a very small mountain village. So it’ll mostly be some of the 200 odd people that are here going!
Let’s see what tomorrow brings, as we descend this very high mountain!
O’ Cebreiro, Galicia
Thursday 18th August 2022
Tuesday 17th August 2022
During my walk today, I was taking to my American Camino friend (Daniella). We were having a chat about the religious side of the Camino. Discussing each other’s beliefs and reasons for walking.
I mentioned I had thought about being a priest one day. But I wouldn’t actually because I’d like to get married and have children of my own one day.
That thought pondered on me all day as I marched up, yet another enormous mountain! The walk today was around 30k all uphill and was bloody hard work!!!
Later that evening, upon arriving in O’Cebreiro (one of the highest mountains in Galicia). When I arrived it started to chuck it down with rain! I mean serious rain too. The mountain was so high up, we were in the clouds! I checked in to the municipal albergue and went to meet friends for food straight away! Eating cabbage soup, drinking water and coffee all at the same time was a bit odd. But I certainly felt better afterwards!!!
After a shower and getting sorted out. I decided with the others to go to the pilgrims mass. I chose to sit at the back, because I didn’t want to feel embarrassed waking up to and sitting at the front. However, my Columbian Camino mate Diego decided we should. So putting my head down, I followed him to the front. When we sat down, a man in a face mask, slightly forwards but next to me. Turned to ask me if I would like to read. I said, “thanks, but no.”
When the mass began, the priest came to me and asked if I would read the Homily in English. This time I felt like I couldn’t say no! So I said, “Yes,” and went to sit right next to him at the very front of the church. Which is a place I haven’t been since I did the reading at Dads funeral – over 20 years ago! My did it feel odd, unnerving.
When my time came. I tried to read slowly, loudly and clearly. But I really felt nervous! The church was packed with easily more than 200 people!
What an ending to a long long day!! Not sure I want to be a priest now either. Maybe I’ll stick to father Matthew of my own children instead. 🤣
Day 21: Thursday 18th August 2022
From: O’ Cebreiro to Sarria
Now this was definitely the longest walking day I have ever had! It was such a packed and crowded room, that I ended up having the worst nights sleep. I was so tired waking up and leaving at around 6am.
The plan was to walk around 22k down the mountain to a place called Triacastella.
Leaving the albergue in the dark, in the clouds and in torrential rainfall was horrible! The entire day was spent feeling wet, cold and tired from such a rapid mountain descent! It was worse coming down than going up!! I had to just put my music on and go. Fortunately my replacement jacket did the trick at keeping me dry from the rain. However, the sweat soaked me through instead!
During the day the group of friends I’ve made decided to go to Sarria (next day’s stage). They told me they had booked a room so I should go. It was a very tough decision! But I just kept going. 40 kilometres later, at around 16:00, I finally arrived. Wet! Tired! And ready to lie down!!!
After a great pilgrims menu, shower and stretch. I felt much much better!!
Tomorrow will be onwards to the final 100 kilometre marker and beginning of the end…
Day 22: Thursday 18th August 2022
From: Sarria to Portomarín
Another terrible nights sleep! Diego, my Camino buddy from Columbia is a proper snorer!! I mean there’s snoring. Snoring. Then there’s Columbian Diego snoring! I swear at times it sounded like he’d stopped breathing. In between making the bed vibrate with the sound waves!
I decided after such a long long day yesterday that today would be an easy day! I set off at 06:30 to walk 23 kilometres. The start of the final approach to the last 100k mark. Leaving Sarria was like joining a marathon! There were so many people walking it was crazy! I’ve never seen so many people marching. My theory of ants is now definitely a fitting analogy!!! I must have overtaken at least 200 people! I decided not to stop much today so I could get passed them.
The reason for the busyness is because, if you walk the last 100k. You collect 2 x stamps per day in your credential book. Then you will receive your certificate in Latin from the Cathedral in SDC. So needless to say, there are a lot of Spanish people who like to take a week off to do it!
During the day, another Camino buddy – Lilian from France (Captain fast!) caught up with me. He left the others in our group an hour later, and because of his speed. He caught up! It was lovely walking the last 12k to Portomarín together. Also nice to have a familiar face at the 100k marker.
When we arrived in Portomarín, we tried to find some beds in a nice place. However, they were all full. So we have checked in to stay at the municipal again. (Bathrooms, toilets not as nice, also way more beds in a room!) 87 packed into 3 rooms. I just hope there won’t be any snoring keeping me awake!
Off to mass in the beautiful church tonight and an early night.
Day 23: Friday 19th August 2022
From: Portomarín to A Ponte Campaña
Another pretty long day! Walked 30k again. Was very tired today. Too many people snoring, talking etc. I was also suffering today with a dodgy stomach, and far too many trips to the toilet!! Fortunately, Lilian (French chap) gave me some herbal Imodium tablets which seem to have done the trick!
The walk was just as busy as yesterday! There certainly are a lot of people walking the last part. Overtook a few, but my glutes were tight, I felt exhausted and just couldn’t go! Lilian was very kind walking with me for a bit. First stop – dried toast and hydration drinks. Helped to feel a bit better. Managed to walk on a bit more.
Walked the last part of the day on my own. Struggled a bit, but better than the morning. Couldn’t get my bag in the right place. Just felt uncomfortable! Still arrived at this tiny village. The house is very very quiet! The bunk beds are lovely and comfy. It’s a proper rural place. I’ll take some photos in a bit to add.
Day 24: Sunday 21st August 2022
From: A Ponte Campaña to Arzua
I had a lovely relaxing evening in the beautiful countryside casa last night.
Easy days walk only 29k. Pretty tired when I arrived. Checked in to a lovely albergue. Only a few of us in an enormous room! Cheap too! Delicious dinner and a good nights sleep!
Day 26: Sunday 21st August 2022
From: Arzua to O’ Pedrouzo
Relatively easy day! Set off just after 7am. Fantastic nights sleep. Certainly one of the best in a while! I was so tired I think I just passed out!
Short walk today. Only 20k. Arrived early, eaten a nice lunch. I’ve done my washing, and had a sleep. Off to church at 19:00. Final 18k to Santiago de Compostela tomorrow. Along with the hundreds of other holiday pilgrims that started a few days ago. Apparently it’s really busy there!! But it’s easy to walk faster, over take them and switch off in solitude sometimes.
Day 27: Wednesday 24th August 2022
From: O’ Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela
Wow! What a day.. I woke up with a sore back, stiff hamstring and left glutes. It was a real struggle to get going! I have had the worst food poisoning for the past 4/5 days too. After every meal, I’ve said goodbye to it not long after it! It’s been so draining, walking 20k+ every day! Still I have preserved – determined! Today was no different!!
Once I got started in the dark, leaving slightly later than usual (07:00). I met up with a nice Spanish lady, who Lilian and I met yesterday. We all walked together for a while. At least until sunrise, when Lilian did his usual – “my name is Capitan Fast, I’m off!”
Today was the final day’s walk. It was very up and down hilly, but not too challenging. Once I got going my leg just got in to the normal repetitive rhythm of movement. We stopped in a bar after 2/3 hours (12k), and had a great breakfast!
It was a very quick walk. It’s funny how 20k used to feel like a really long walk. Now the 4/5 hours of walking seems to just fly by so fast! Quitting smoking, and being more physically active at the gym have certainly helped me a lot!
Arriving in Santiago seemed very quick today. I didn’t really recognise it until the last minute. All the pathways seem so much more modern, cared for, loved almost (basically all new).
Walking into the plaza at the front of the cathedral again was a very surreal experience. I was greeted with big hugs, cheers and a round of applause from all the friends I’ve made. It truly is a magical cathedral and plaza. A place where I feel so emotional being in. It is even making me tearful just writing about it. There are so many people who endure a range of experiences, pain and suffering to arrive there. There are so many tears of joy and elation at arriving. The emotions of love and happiness is immensely powerful!
The walk this time, all be it a week shorter has felt both easier and harder at the same time. Neither of my dodgy hips has hurt once! But my hamstrings, glutes have been horribly painful! Suffering with severe diarrhoea for a week (dodgy water I think) was also hard. Still I would not give in! I was determined to make it no matter what! There are so many challenges that life throws at us. But the best way to overcome them is head on. Face first. Feet first. One step then another – adelante / andiamo, let’s go!!
And go I have done!
757 kilometres of walking in 25 days!
It won’t be the last time I walk a Camino. It is an incredible feeling walking alone. Meeting people, sometimes briefly, sometimes for a few days – maybe even for longer. Time spent lost in my own thoughts, listening to music, singing. Seeing unseen sights, experiencing new things. All of these make these ‘adventures’ life changingly incredible!!
Day 28: Thursday 25th August 2022
From: Santiago de Compostela to Fisterre
Well.. I have done a Camino again! I can’t quite believe it really. Being six years older and maybe more sensible. It has been physically more challenging. Even after a day or two’s rest. My legs are still stiff/tight. But then after such a long walk, I’m not surprised.
I decided to take the bus to Fisterre again. My mind was saying to me walk. But my body was telling me differently. So I’ve been sensible.
Arriving here to see the sea was lovely! It’s a very small fishing village nestled amongst the hills. Such a calm, and peaceful place. Even though it is quite touristy and pilgrim-full.
I’ve booked to stay in a private room for two nights. For two reasons really: one, so I can finally get a good nights sleep. Two, because I’m done with snoring and farty arsed people (at least, until the next time.)
Once I’d checked in, I went in search of lunch. I met up with some Italian chaps I met a while back. So I joined them for lunch, then the afternoon too. I walked the 45 minute trek up the hill to the final marker.
Arriving here again was also very very surreal!! Different people, different vibe, same place. Although, now far more touristy!!
I took some photos, had a long reflection time. I also said a few prayers and wishes for the future. Tomorrow, I’m off to Muxia and see the real, true, spiritual end of the Camino. However, this I am not going to write about. This day will be my own..
Until the next time! As everybody says – Buen Camino
